Geneva is expensive. Plan around that.
There is no point pretending otherwise: Geneva is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, and a careless day here costs a lot. The good news is that most of the best things are free or nearly free, and the city hands you a transport pass.
If you stay in a hotel or hostel here, ask for the Geneva Transport Card at check-in. It covers buses, trams and the little yellow lake ferries for the length of your stay, and it is included, not extra. Use the ferries; they are public transport that happens to be a boat trip.
The Jet d'Eau, and why it is there
The fountain shooting water high above the lake is the city's symbol, and its origin is better than its postcard. It began as a pressure-release valve: the hydraulic network that powered the city's workshops needed somewhere to send the excess when the craftsmen shut off their machines at the end of the day, so the surplus was vented upwards. People liked the look of it, and eventually the city built a proper fountain and kept it.
Walk out along the pier towards it. If the wind is blowing the wrong way you will get soaked, which is part of it. It is switched off in hard frost and for maintenance, so it is not guaranteed in midwinter.
The old town, Calvin and the cathedral
The Vieille Ville sits on the hill above the lake and is small, steep and quiet. At the top is St Pierre Cathedral, which is where John Calvin preached, and it explains a lot about the city: the interior was stripped bare during the Reformation, and it stayed that way.
Two things here are worth the entry. The tower climb gives you the roofs, the lake and the mountains. And underneath the cathedral is an archaeological site where you can walk among Roman and early Christian remains, which is the most underrated thing in Geneva.
Nearby, the Reformation Wall in the Parc des Bastions is a hundred-metre row of carved reformers, and in front of it there are giant chess sets that anyone can play on. That last part is free, and it is where locals actually go.
Swimming in the lake at the Bains des Pâquis
This is the answer to the expensive-city problem. The Bains des Pâquis is a public bathing jetty sticking out into the lake, a few minutes from the main station, and it costs almost nothing to get in.
In summer you swim off the pier with the Jet d'Eau in front of you and the Alps behind. In winter it stays open, with a sauna and hammam, and the tradition is to jump into the cold lake between sessions. The café serves an inexpensive plate of the day and a famous fondue in the cold months. It is the least Swiss-expensive experience in Switzerland.
The UN and CERN
Geneva is the second home of the United Nations, and the Palais des Nations runs guided tours of the assembly halls. Book ahead and bring your passport; you are entering an international zone and they check. Outside stands the Broken Chair, a twelve-metre wooden chair with a shattered leg, a campaign monument against landmines.
Out at Meyrin, CERN is where the web was invented and where the Large Hadron Collider runs beneath the border. Its visitor centre is free, and it is one of the best science exhibitions anywhere. Check the booking situation before you go, since sessions can be limited.
Two more, when you have time
Carouge, a tram ride south, was built by the Kingdom of Sardinia in the eighteenth century and still feels faintly Italian: low houses, courtyards, small workshops and a calmer pace than the centre.
And the Salève, the mountain that dominates the view, is reached by cable car in a few minutes. Worth knowing: the mountain is in France, so bring the documents you would need to cross a border.
Seeing Geneva by playing it
The old town is compact and its history is written in details you will walk past: the arsenal cannons, the Reformation inscriptions, the point where the city walls stood. A city game turns a walk through it into a route with clues, which is a good use of a morning and costs less than most things here. It works well with family and with a group.
Frequently asked questions
Is Geneva worth visiting on a budget?
Yes, if you plan for it. The lake baths, the parks, the Reformation Wall and CERN's exhibition are free or cheap, and hotels give you a free transport pass.
Is the Jet d'Eau always running?
No. It is switched off in hard frost and during maintenance, so it is not guaranteed in the depths of winter.
Can you swim in Lake Geneva?
Yes, from public bathing spots such as the Bains des Pâquis. The water is clean and cold, and swimming is popular from June to September.
Can I visit the UN?
Yes, on a guided tour of the Palais des Nations. Book in advance and bring a passport or ID card.
Do I need Swiss francs?
Cards work everywhere. Some places near the border take euros but give change in francs at a poor rate, so pay by card.
Come and play in Geneva
If you want the city rather than the price list, walk it with a playing route. Here is how it works, and for team outings and larger groups we have formats on this page. Questions about dates, group sizes or routes? Get in touch. Two hours away by train: Bern.
